You've done Senso-ji at dawn, queued for Fushimi Inari and eaten your way through Dotonbori. This trip is for the next time: Okinawa, Japan's subtropical south, where the sea is a colour you didn't know existed, the castles are Ryukyu stone walls instead of white towers, and dinner is goya champuru with a glass of awamori.
The plan is simple. Fly into Tokyo or Osaka, whichever is easier from home, and take two or three easy days to shake off the jet lag (with ideas for corners you probably haven't seen yet). Then a short flight to Naha and seven nights on Okinawa: two in Naha with a boat day to the Kerama Islands, then a rental car up the island, from the sacred sites of the south and the sea road to the eastern islands, to the west-coast capes, the Churaumi Aquarium, Kouri Island and the forests of Yanbaru in the far north. At the end you fly back to the city you came from for two last nights, and home from there.
*Accommodation (sharing a room), domestic flights, rental car and ferries, middle version. International flights not included.
Take it along
Trip planner for your phone or printer
The whole route on a few pages, with every stop, stay, restaurant and sight, plus a map file with all stops for Google My Maps.
How to open the map file in Google Maps
- On a computer, open Google My Maps and click Create a new map.
- Click Import and choose the KML file you downloaded.
- On your phone, the map then appears in the Google Maps app under You → Maps, and works with your location.
Tokyo or Osaka: where to land
Both cities have frequent flights to Naha, so pick the one with the better connection from home: the cheaper fare, the shorter journey or the nicer flight times. You fly back to the same city at the end, so a simple return ticket works.
| Fly into Tokyo | Fly into Osaka (Kansai) | |
|---|---|---|
| Good for | Europe and North America: the most direct flights | Much of Asia and the Middle East; Finnair, Emirates and others also fly here from Europe |
| Flight to Naha | Haneda: ~2 h 40, a departure about every half hour (JAL, ANA, Skymark); Narita: low-cost carriers | Kansai or Itami: ~2 h 10; Kansai is a Peach hub with cheap fares |
| 2–3 jet-lag days | Neighbourhoods off the first-trip list (see stop 1) | Food, cafés and easy day trips (see stop 1) |
Flights inside Japan
Book Tokyo/Osaka ⇄ Naha as one return ticket. JAL's Japan Explorer Pass and ANA's fares for overseas visitors are cheap flat fares (from about ¥12k one way, booked from abroad); the low-cost carriers Peach, Jetstar and Skymark are often cheaper but charge for bags. Allow at least 3 hours between landing from Naha and an international flight, or better, follow this route and stay two more nights.
The route at a glance
Tap or click the map to enlarge it.
Prices are per room for two per night. ⭐ = famous / worth it · ⭐⭐ = splurge. Okinawa's beach hotels cost up to 50 % more in July, August and Golden Week.
Stop by stop
Tokyo or Osaka 東京・大阪
Nights 1–3 · Jet lag days, away from the first-trip sights
Plan
- Tokyo: old-town lanes in Yanaka and Nezu, coffee and the garden in Kiyosumi-Shirakawa, vintage shops in Shimokitazawa or Koenji, the green Todoroki Valley, and an evening in a neighbourhood sento
- Osaka: cafés in the old wooden houses of Nakazakicho, the izakaya alleys of Tenma, the Nakanoshima Museum of Art, a forest walk to Minoh Falls (~40 min from Minoh Station), Sakai's knife makers and the giant keyhole tombs
- Jet lag works for you: you'll wake at 5 am, the right time for a sushi breakfast at Toyosu or Tsukiji (Tokyo) or a walk through Kuromon Market before it fills up (Osaka)
- Keep the evenings early. Day 4 starts with a morning flight to Naha
Where to stay
- Tokyo: Mitsui Garden Hotel Ginza Premier high floors over Ginza, 5 min to Tokyo Station¥30–45k
- Tokyo: Hotel Gracery Shinjuku the Godzilla hotel, right in Kabukicho¥22–35k
- Osaka: Cross Hotel Osaka a few steps from Dotonbori¥25–40k
- Osaka: Hotel Hankyu Respire Osaka above Osaka Station, easy for Kobe days¥18–30k
Naha 那覇
Nights 4–5 · Ryukyu castle, markets & a boat to the Kerama Islands
Plan
- Day 4: fly to Naha, then the Yui Rail monorail into town (no car yet: traffic and hotel parking make it pointless here). Kokusai-dori's side streets, Makishi Market for a fish dinner
- Shuri Castle: the rebuilt main hall (Seiden), burnt in 2019, opens again from 23 November 2026, at first with timed reservations. Walk back down the old Kinjo-cho stone path
- Day 5, the boat day: the fast boat from Tomari port to Zamami (~50 min). Swim at Furuzamami Beach, look for sea turtles at Ama Beach, climb a viewpoint over the Kerama Islands. Back by evening
- Hidden: Sakaemachi Market after dark, when the stalls turn into standing bars with live sanshin music; the potters of Tsuboya in the morning
Where to stay
- ⭐ Hotel Collective big, modern and right on Kokusai-dori¥25–40k
- Hyatt Regency Naha quiet side of the centre, rooftop pool¥30–50k
- Richmond Hotel Naha Kumoji good value, short walk to the monorail¥14–22k
Onna & Yomitan 恩納・読谷
Nights 6–7 · Sacred south, a road over the sea & the west-coast capes
Plan
- Day 6: pick up the car (rental shuttles from the airport, allow an hour). South first: the Peace Memorial Park and its sea of names, Ou Island for fish tempura, then Sefa-utaki (buy tickets at the Nanjo City Local Products Center, ¥600)
- Afternoon: Kaichu-doro, a 5-km road across the shallows, to the quiet islands of Henza, Miyagi and Hamahiga with its cave shrine Shirumichu. On the way back, sunset from Katsuren Castle
- Day 7, the west coast: snorkel the Blue Cave at Cape Maeda early, before the tour boats (book a guide; it closes in big waves). Then Zakimi Castle, the potters of Yachimun no Sato, and sunset at Cape Zanpa lighthouse
- Hidden: Kudaka, the island of the gods, is a 15-minute ferry from Azama port on day 6, if you'd rather walk than drive. Cycle it, and stay on the paths: much of it is sacred
Where to stay
- ⭐ Hotel Nikko Alivila Spanish-style resort on one of Yomitan's best beaches¥40–70k
- Hotel Monterey Okinawa Spa & Resort big resort with its own beach in Onna¥30–50k
- Rizzan Sea-Park Hotel Tancha-Bay good value, long beach, close to Cape Maeda¥25–40k
- ⭐⭐ Halekulani Okinawa Okinawa's most elegant hotel, every room faces the sea¥120k+
Also worth seeing
Motobu & Yanbaru 本部・やんばる
Nights 8–9 · Whale sharks, island bridges & the jungle north
Plan
- Day 8: north along the coast past Manzamo, to the Churaumi Aquarium (¥2,180; go after 4 pm or right at opening, when the school groups are gone). Walk or cycle the Fukugi tree road in Bise next door
- Afternoon: Nakijin Castle and the bridge to Kouri Island; sunset at Tinu Beach. Dinner at Kishimoto Shokudo, open since 1905
- Day 9, Yanbaru: the forest of the far north, World Heritage since 2021. The trail to Hiji Falls (~40 min each way), the limestone and banyans of Daisekirinzan, the wind at Cape Hedo. Lunch in Ogimi. Watch for the flightless Okinawa rail on the roads
- Day 10 morning, hidden: the 15-minute boat to flat little Minna Island for a swim, or the 30-minute ferry to Ie Island to climb its rock peak. Then south to Chatan
- Optional: Junglia, the big jungle theme park that opened in 2025 near Nakijin (from about ¥8,000 for visitors from abroad, a full day)
Where to stay
- ⭐ Hotel Orion Motobu Resort & Spa next to the aquarium, every room faces the sea and Ie Island¥40–70k
- Hilton Okinawa Sesoko Resort on Sesoko Island, long white beach, sunsets¥35–60k
- Villas on Kouri Island small private villas, some with plunge pools¥30–50k
- Hotel Mahaina Wellness Resort family-friendly, near the aquarium¥20–35k
Also worth seeing
Chatan 北谷
Night 10 · Sunset by the sea wall, then back to the airport
Plan
- Day 10: back south on the expressway (~1 h 15 from Motobu; ~¥1,040 with the ETC card)
- Evening in Mihama: the colourful streets of American Village, sunset over the sea wall, dinner by the water
- Day 11: last swim or breakfast with a view, return the car near the airport (allow an hour), and fly back to Tokyo or Osaka
Where to stay
- ⭐ Vessel Hotel Campana Okinawa on the waterfront in American Village, rooftop bath¥20–35k
- Hilton Okinawa Chatan Resort resort pool, a short walk to Mihama¥35–55k
- The Beach Tower Okinawa tower hotel above Sunset Beach¥20–35k
Back to Tokyo or Osaka 東京・大阪
Nights 11–12 · Two easy days before the long flight home
Plan
- Day 11: flight back (~2 h 15 to Tokyo, ~2 h to Osaka). The same hotel as at the start, with your suitcase waiting
- Tokyo: a hike up Mount Takao (1 h from Shinjuku), the kitchen shops of Kappabashi, the onsen food hall Toyosu Senkyaku Banrai, or the last sushi counter you didn't get into
- Osaka: half a day in Kobe (~25 min), a soak in Arima Onsen, or the gift and snack floors of the Umeda department stores
- Day 13: fly home. Send your big suitcase to the airport a day ahead with takkyubin and take the train with hand luggage
Where to stay
- Tokyo: Mitsui Garden Hotel Ginza Premier high floors over Ginza, 5 min to Tokyo Station¥30–45k
- Tokyo: Hotel Gracery Shinjuku the Godzilla hotel, right in Kabukicho¥22–35k
- Osaka: Cross Hotel Osaka a few steps from Dotonbori¥25–40k
- Osaka: Hotel Hankyu Respire Osaka above Osaka Station, easy for Kobe days¥18–30k
Budget
Estimates for October at ¥150 ≈ US$1 · ¥165 ≈ €1. Ranges, not promises.
| Version | Accommodation (2 people) | + Flights, car & boats (per person) | Per person |
|---|---|---|---|
| Value: business hotels in the cities and Naha, mid-range resorts | ≈ ¥220k | ≈ ¥65k | ≈ ¥175k |
| Middle: the first or second option at every stop | ≈ ¥400k | ≈ ¥65k | ≈ ¥265k |
| + Splurge: a night at the Halekulani or Hoshinoya Okinawa | + ¥80–150k | + ¥40–75k |
My recommendation
Take the middle version, about ¥265k per person. If you splurge once, do it on the west coast, where the sunsets are.
🚗 Includes the return flight Tokyo/Osaka ⇄ Naha (~¥25–35k), a compact rental car for 5 days shared by two (~¥30k each) and the Zamami fast boat (¥7,510 return).
Not included
- International flights
- Food, about ¥6–10k per person a day
- Fuel and expressway tolls: about ¥8–12k in total
- Churaumi, castles, snorkelling tours and boats beyond Zamami
- July, August and Golden Week: up to +50% on Okinawa
Booking & practical tips
Book in this order
Domestic flights and the rental car first (both get expensive and sell out in summer), then the Okinawa hotels, then the city hotels.
Less beach time?
Cut Okinawa to 4–5 nights (Naha 1, Onna 1, Motobu 2) and fly Naha → Kagoshima (~1 h 20): Sakurajima, Ibusuki's hot-sand baths or Yakushima's cedar forests, then back to Osaka by Shinkansen (~4 h) or fly to Tokyo. My Kyushu-by-train route covers the south of Kyushu in detail.
Sea safety
Swim at beaches with lifeguards and nets. Currents at the reef edge are strong, the coral cuts, and box jellyfish appear from June to September. Don't touch or take coral or shells from protected areas.
Respect the sacred sites
Utaki like Sefa-utaki and the paths on Kudaka are places of worship, not photo spots. Keep to the paths, don't step over rope barriers, speak quietly.
Money & cards
Cards work in hotels, chains and most restaurants; small soba shops, markets and island ferries still often want cash. Convenience-store ATMs take foreign cards.
Eat
Okinawa soba, goya champuru, rafute (braised pork belly), sea grapes (umibudo), taco rice, jimami tofu (peanut tofu), sata andagi doughnuts, Orion beer and awamori.
Longer on Okinawa
+2–4 nights · slow Okinawa
- sleep on Zamami for 1–2 nights instead of the day trip: turtles in the morning, stars at night
- a night in Yanbaru (Kunigami) with a guided night walk
- a 3rd night in Motobu for Minna or Ie Island
- a lazy beach day in Onna
+3–5 nights · the outer islands
- fly Naha → Ishigaki (~1 h): Taketomi's sand-street village and Iriomote's jungle rivers by boat
- or Naha → Miyako (~50 min): long bridges and some of Japan's clearest water
- both have direct flights back to Tokyo and Osaka, so you don't need to return to Naha
Car for some days or all of them?
| What it means | For whom | |
|---|---|---|
| Days 6–11 (this route) | No car in Naha, five days for the rest of the island | Most people: Naha is easier on foot and by monorail, and hotel parking there costs ~¥1,500–2,500 a night |
| All 7 days | Pick up on arrival at the airport | If you skip Naha's sights and stay on the coast from day 4 |
| No car | Buses, the Yanbaru Express airport bus to Motobu, day tours | Possible for Naha, Kerama, Onna and the aquarium; the south, the east-coast islands and Yanbaru are hard without a car |
Rental cars cost about ¥8–12k a day for a compact car with full insurance, and up to twice that in July, August and Golden Week. Book early and ask for an ETC card. You need an International Driving Permit (or the official Japanese translation, for some countries). Traffic on Route 58 is slow in the morning and evening rush hour; the expressway is the fast way north.
When to go to Okinawa
Okinawa is warm all year, but the sea, the rain and the typhoons decide when it is at its best. My favourites: April, late June to mid-July, and October.
| Months | Weather & sea | Verdict |
|---|---|---|
| Jan–Feb | 17–20 °C, often windy and grey, sea ~21 °C. Pink Kanhi cherries in late January, whale watching off the Kerama Islands | Good for walking and whales, not for beaches. Cheapest |
| March–April | 22–25 °C, sea warming up to ~23 °C, the beaches open | Very good; avoid Golden Week (29 Apr–5 May) |
| May–mid June | Rainy season, usually from about 10 May to 21 June: humid, with heavy showers | OK if cheap prices matter more than sun |
| late June–July | Just after the rainy season: clear skies, sea at its calmest and clearest, ~30 °C | Best for the sea; school holidays from about 20 July make it busy and pricey |
| August–September | Hot (32 °C) and humid, peak typhoon season | Book flexible rates and keep a spare day |
| October | Warm (27 °C), sea still ~26 °C, fewer people | Very good; the odd late typhoon |
| Nov–Dec | Mild (20–24 °C), drier, sea cooling to ~23 °C | Good for culture, castles and Yanbaru, and Shuri's new main hall |
Typhoons
Most typhoons hit between July and September. A typhoon stops flights and boats for one or two days, and Okinawans close their shutters and wait. That's why this route has two buffer nights in Tokyo or Osaka at the end.
For the rest of Japan, see Seasons for the month-by-month overview.
Frequently asked questions
Is a week on Okinawa too long?
Not with a car. Seven nights gives you a boat day to the Kerama Islands, the south and its sacred sites, the west-coast capes, the aquarium and Kouri, and a full day in the Yanbaru forest, with time left to swim. With fewer days, keep Motobu and Kerama and skip the south.
Do I need a car on Okinawa?
For most of this route, yes. Naha and the Kerama Islands work without one, and there are buses to the aquarium, but the south, the east-coast islands and Yanbaru are hard to reach by bus. Rent the car only after the Naha days.
Tokyo or Osaka for the city days?
Whichever has the better flight from home. Tokyo has more direct flights from Europe and North America, Osaka (Kansai) from much of Asia. Both have frequent, short flights to Naha, and you return to the same city at the end.
When is the sea best?
Late June to mid-July, right after the rainy season, when the water is calm and very clear. April and October are also very good and quieter. Typhoons are most likely from July to September.
Can I swim in winter?
Rarely. From December to February the sea is around 21 °C and it's often windy. Winter is great for castles, Yanbaru hikes, whale watching around the Kerama Islands and low prices, but not for beach days.
Comments
Questions, tips, your own experience?
Done this route, planning it, or found a great ryokan I missed? Leave a comment below. Please keep it friendly and on topic.